Fashion columnist, Lakshmi Sreedhar, breaks down her favourite collections from the NYFW Spring 2019 show. Here are the key highlights broken down for fashion experts and those curious to learn more. What do we have to look forwards to when warmer weather roles back around?
KATE SPADE: NYFW is never complete without the late Kate Spade. In honour of her legacy, the Kate Spade New York brand held a tribute to its late founder on the runway. For the first time, new creative director, Nicola Glass, showcased her collection, emphasising on KS' signature insignia- a spade. Usually, KSNY goes for presentations, but this year marked its debut on the runway shows. The catwalk featured a miscellany of several casual chic, everyday ready-to-wear outfits in trendy yet simple colours, accompanied by the occasional fluorescent yellow attires, complete with yellow gumboots. An interesting piece was a weird combination a satin yellow dress paired with a simple baby pink loose overcoat.
RALPH LAUREN: The second day of NYFW saw designer Ralph Lauren celebrate the 50th anniversary of his brand at Central Park against the backdrop of the Bethesda Terrace in his hometown, Manhattan, NYC. Having launched the label aged only 28, no one imagined that he would still be the lead designer at 80. Starting with a tie collection back in 1967, then progressing to the Polo menswear and eventually womenswear in the 70s, it was not surprising that the show was a star-studded celebration; including Anna Wintour, Vera Wang, Pierce Brosnan, Blake Lively,Anne Hathaway and Oprah Winfrey (who even gave a speech!). With roughly 4.5 million hits on social media , Ralph Lauren dominated NYFW with a 110-look collection.
As a tribute to the brand’s iconic style, Gigi Hadid walked on the runway in a handmade patchwork gown of 132 separate patches integrated with the cross-stitching and embroidery. Another model entered in a simple shirt labelled 67 and with lots of well-dressed, cute children clad in tweed and plaid outfits in the finale, the show was ethereal. As Chioma Nnadi commented—“The designer took a victory lap with tears in his eyes, and there was barely a dry eye in the house.”
OSCAR DE LA RENTA: Since the reins fell into the hands of designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s a couple of years back, the VIP section of social X-rays for this label’s events have been swapped by rap artists and reality TV stars. The skirts and spectacular heavily-studded evening gowns were joined by a collection of sarong-style wraps and pyjama sets with interestingly, strapless bustier tops. Both designers reportedly began contemplating the spring fashion show whilst booking tickets for their separate summer expeditions (despite usually travelling together); Garcia to India, and Kim, to Como, Italy, Marrakech and Croatia. This year the materials for the spring collection outfits, including the patchwork scarf print, was sourced by Kim from a textile mill in Como, Italy. There were also embroidered vintage pieces from former shows, as reported in a backstage interview by Vogue. The runway also saw Moroccan silhouettes like ornate kaftans and ornamented variations of Indian saris. Colours included many neutrals and intermittently bold shades like bright canary yellow, and a new terracotta red. Nicki Minaj, Dianna Argon and Kate Beckinsale cheered on Gigi and Bella Hadid from the front row
NANA JUDY: Australian designer Nana Judy, known for premium streetwear made her debut at the NYFW and it’s a safe bet to say that everybody loved the show. Her show took place at Spring Studios in Manhattan, with models Winnie Harlow and Victoria’s Secret model Josephine Skriver walking on the runway. The show featured the latest trend in Aussie-land- Dalmatians, dogs faces, dog footprints plastered all over the clothes. Don’t be surprised to see an overload of spots in the designer’s recent collection. And to top it all off, real dogs accompanied the models on the runway. Yes, seriously. Her collection included micro-minis, metallic bomber jackets, denim-on-denim, and combat boots.
ECKHAUS LATTA: This season, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta held their show at Bushwick on the fourth floor of an industrial building where sheet metal was being cut on the ground floor. On the one hand, the label appears to be unconventional, coltish and handcrafted. On the other hand, these designers are getting pretty good at the business of fashion, speaking commercially. Flimsy, sheer t-shirts, spiderlike mesh dresses, dip and tie-dyed jeans, fringes, pastel-shaded knits, plaid and drop-shoulder jackets were sighted on the catwalk. The kiddie orchestra that played while the models walked the runway was fun to experience but was also misleading- Eckhaus Latta is growing up
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